I’m so thrilled to have Leila Kelleher on Big Undies today! Leila, 46, is an Assistant Professor of Fashion Design and Social Justice and half of Muna and Broad plus size sewing patterns. She’s launching her latest venture a space in between a global luxury plus size brand based in Japan this year. She’s also one author of the forthcoming Plus-Size Patternmaking for Womenswear which will be out this fall.
Follow Leila on Instagram where she shares fits, makes, and fat rants.
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What are you wearing right now?
I’m wearing my favourite jeans—I made the pattern and sewed them myself. They are a dark, rigid denim and I have to admit that they tick all the boxes when it comes to comfort (who knew rigid denim hard pants could be comfy??) and style. I’m also wearing an oversized T-shirt that I made (it’s similar to what we released as the Hyde T-shirt at Muna and Broad). It’s winter in Canada now and very cold, so when I go out I am definitely wearing a warm coat. Right now, that’s a big puffy parka from Outdoor Research (similar, up to a 4X). My everyday purse is the Eggi in ultramarine from Lindquist Objects.
What was the last item of clothing you bought or made?
The most recent thing I bought was a pair of sneakers from Body of Work, a fashion brand in Toronto. They are a collab with SAS shoemakers, whose orthopedic-chic shoes I was already a fan of, but a custom colourway. I feel a bit sheepish admitting this because I generally do not support companies who do not make my size (Body of Work also makes straight size clothing), but I am justifying it because SAS is very fat friendly with a variety of width shoes that accommodate orthotics and high volume feet.
The last thing I made was my jeans that I’m wearing!
If you had to wear a uniform (same thing every day) what would it be?
Oooh, that is really, really hard as it changes all the time (I get obsessed with one kind of thing for a while). Probably a merino column skirt (the Muna and Broad Whitlam skirt) paired with an oversized T-shirt and sneakers. I like to be comfortable and low key but feel like I’m a little cool.
On top, I often wear a black Street and Saddle varsity jacket that I love. Street and Saddle are my fave slow fashion brand. Katelyn is now a friend and Street and SAddle goes up to a 5X standard, AND does custom sizes for all her styles. She doesn’t upcharge for the customization and I really love this. And my trusty Eggi bag. With most of my wardrobe being black, I love the pop of colour.
Your book Plus-Size Patternmaking for Womenswear will be out this fall. Obviously everyone should buy your book, but if you could give clothing designers ONE TIP for making plus size patterns better, what would it be?
Please make a plus size block that is at least a 20W and fit it on a fit model who is typical for that size. That means the person likely has an apron belly, large upper arms, and an abundant butt. So often we see brands grade up from their straight size block (plus size folks are not a larger version of a size 8!) or fit their plus size garments on plus size models whose figure types are closer to a straight size body. Of course all bodies are good bodies, but I do think your brand will fit more folks if you fit them to someone who is a typical customer of that size.
Is there a brand out there that makes plus size clothes that you think is doing a really good (or even just decent?) job with their patternmaking?
For slow fashion, I stan Street and Saddle since they make clothing for any size, meaning they are truly inclusive (they also do mods for folks who need adaptive clothing). The fit is very good and they will work with you if it isn’t right.
Ganni does a reasonable job but the sizes don’t go big enough. Many of their garments do not fit me, but I have a lightweight puffy that is a really solid plus size fit (Leila’s is available secondhand here in a size small, but Ganni has this one and this one currently in stock in plus sizes.)
Eileen Fisher does a great job with sustainability and offers all styles in all sizes, but the sizes don’t go large enough.
Am I allowed to talk about fast fashion? Because the reality is that is what most plus size clothing is! Old Navy denim (up to size 30) is of good quality and decent fit compared to most ready to wear. They also offer rigid and low stretch plus size denim which means it lasts longer and will biodegrade and be able to be recycled better.
Where did you get clothes as a kid? Describe a favorite childhood outfit.
I was a goth as a teenager and made many of my clothes as it was really hard to find sizes that fit me (full disclosure: I was a straight sized child and a plus size teen). I made myself a loose, long, black dress from cheesecloth that had medieval pendant sleeves. I wore this beauty with black Dr Martens or army boots. Sometimes I would wear a black corset on top.
How has teaching at Parsons and working with students changed how you think about clothes or patternmaking?
Honestly, it gives me a lot of hope for the future! So many of our students care about inclusion in many aspects of their lives, for example trans rights. So it’s not a big stretch to introduce them to the current challenges that face plus size folks and have them outraged. It’s just generally not something they have needed to think about and due to societal fatphobia, it’s not talked about enough.
Tell me about an item of clothing that you wear only to do a specific activity.
Does an apron count? I made a linen apron several years ago and wear it every time I cook…. but I definitely wouldn’t wear it anywhere else! Getting aprons that provide good chest and body coverage for plus sizes is hard!
What did you wear to the last party or event you attended?
I went to my friend’s wedding recently and wore a Mara Hoffman (RIP) dress (available here secondhand in a size M) and some Maguire Shoes winter boots from a few seasons back. They are similar to these and are fully shearling-lined, so practical for chilly Canada and New York! Mine are a little more Spice Girl-esque, haha.
Tell me about an accessory or piece of clothing that you lost or ruined but still think about.
I once thrifted a pair of RM Williams boots (in Australia) with a cuban heel and a classic almond toe. The elastic eventually needed replacing but at the time I didn’t have the money to do it and I don’t know what became of them. Nowadays RM Williams are a lot of money and I couldn’t really justify buying them, so it’s definitely a huge regret!
Who do you think has good style?
Oooh. Good question. I admire folks who are good at doing things I’m not good at. I don’t think I’m great at layering of mashing up patterns, so I really love Lydia’s (styleisstyle) outfits. They always look so cool.
I also like Amy Smilovic’s content. She is the founder of Tibi and has good tips on styling. I get ideas/principles from her but don’t necessarily emulate what she does.
Anything else you want to tell us about getting dressed?
I base my dressing around “hero” pieces. These are great pieces that are either wonderful quality, very cool, or conversation starters. I think because plus size clothing is so hard to come by in general, I like to focus on key pieces. I try to have at least one hero piece in an outfit. I think my Lindquist Eggi is a hero piece so that often makes it easy for me to be a bit lazier!
Thank you so much for doing the style questionnaire, Leila! Follow Leila on Instagram, pre-order a copy of Plus-Size Patternmaking for Womenswear, and check out Muna & Broad sewing patterns.
Let me know how you liked this style questionnaire in the comments!
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Such an honour and pleasure to do this style questionnaire! Thank you!
Wow what a dream! There is so much possibility and information here, along with incredible style.